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A few years ago the now defunct Playboy Club got into trouble with the Gaming Board, Britain's regulatory body, by encouraging hall porters at the classier hotels to steer high rollers its way. Missing from London's 19 casinos is the clatter-jangle-shriek of the slot machines and their devotees that give our casinos the sound of something out of Dante. The center of activity was the unadorned basement of a beat-up house on a nondescript street. In part it is the absence of craps, which cannot be properly enjoyed without full- throated cries of prayer and thanksgiving, along with the blessed absence of slot machines that keep the ''upmarket'' casinos so quiet.

At P. Otherwise, the game is the same, although it is hard to imagine the description of it by the British Casino Association coming from the mouth of a Vegas heavy: ''The shooter shall without unreasonable delay throw the two selected dice so that they leave his hand simultaneously, with a view to striking the end of the table farthest from him.

The hour rule, designed to deter the ''impulse gambler,'' is one of several rules that make Britain's casinos the most tightly regulated in the world.

Up a bit higher on the gaming scale is the Palm Beach Casino, a short walk from the Link. There was room for three poker games and two games of kalooki, a variation of rummy favored by north London matrons.

The games as played in London differ from those in Las Vegas and Atlantic City in ways that are generally beneficial to the player. A touch above the Golden Nugget is the Victoria Sporting Club, where I enjoyed the privileges of membership since it is owned by the same firm as the Village.

In addition, the very surroundings discourage untoward sounds. Although Al doesn't care for casino games, he found a seat at the blackjack table and, relying on my over-the-shoulder counsel, managed to break even.

It was explained to me that fall is off-season for the richest gamblers; business is heaviest in the summer, when no one who is anyone in the oil states stays home. So by P. In America, a player may make two hands of one whenever he ladbrokes casino tottenham court road dealt any pair, by separating the cards and placing an additional bet.

No local advertising or other ''enticement to game'' is permitted. The 14 roulette tables and 10 blackjack tables of the definitely nonexclusive Golden Nugget near Picadilly Circus are jammed every night with waiters from nearby Chinatown.

Alvarez, British literary light and poker enthusiast, whose last book, ''The Biggest Game in Town,'' was a report on tournament poker in Las Vegas.

My host was the friend of my friend, A. But since two fives, for example, add up to a promising ten, while a five ladbrokes casino tottenham court road its own is a heart-sinking card to start with, it is injudicious, not to say suicidal, to split fives - and in Britain it is prohibited.

Indeed it was, at one of London's two licensed card clubs, the Lyndhurst in St. Alas, the most inviting of London's West End casinos issue no invitation to the visiting American, unless he comes with a reputation as a high roller.

The inexperienced blackjack player is helped by rules that prevent him from ''splitting'' certain pairs, such as ladbrokes casino tottenham court road cards, fours and fives. Since players who bet on red or black or on odd or even do not collect when the little ball stops on a zero, the elimination of one zero cuts the house percentage.

Having made that contribution to research, Al and I drove to north London, where, he assured me, a poker game would be in progress. Tipping of croupiers and dealers is prohibited, to forestall collusion. For valued clients the fee is waived along with charges for dinners at the sumptuous restaurant, Havana cigars, boxes at Ascot and limousine service.

View on timesmachine. The begilded rooms of the Ritz, the Georgian appointments of Crockfords, the extravagant architecture of Clermont House, built in by George II for a mistress - these induce a stately-homes-of-Britain hush, not to ladbrokes casino tottenham court road torpor.

Here at last was a gambling establishment that wanted me, had a seat for me and offered my favorite game.

One thing the high-class, low-class and middle- class clubs have in common ladbrokes casino tottenham court road those attractive ladbrokes casino tottenham court road women in close-fitting dresses.

Everything, that is, but the gambling. Despite the reputations of the upmarket clubs for serving big-money players, on my visits only the moderate-stake tables were occupied.

The most popular game in London is roulette, followed by blackjack and, for the heavier bettor, punto banco, a version of baccarat, a game with all the intellectual challenge of Go Fish. TimesMachine is an exclusive benefit for home delivery and digital subscribers. The odds at craps are slightly better than in America's casinos.

John's Wood. Moreover, these are not large establishments; the Clermont has only six tables and accommodates no more than players on a good day. It is as close as you can come in London to the commotion ladbrokes casino tottenham court road an American casino. Downmarket, things tend to be livelier than at the more exclusive clubs.

The most that a club can legitimately do is put in lights at its entrance the games available within, and many establishments do not stoop to that.

Thus are petrodollars recycled. The clubs open at 2 P. Occasionally the digitization process introduces transcription errors or other problems; we are continuing to work to improve these archived versions.

Although I had not palms casino breakfast buffet price at the Palm Beach, I was able to play there, as a guest of a member - the easiest, cheapest and quickest way to gain entree to a club.

Most notably, London's roulette wheels have a single zero instead of the two zeros on American wheels. Home Page World U.

I felt truly at home at last - which is to say, both Al and I won. No alcoholic beverages may be served at the tables, but soft drinks and sandwiches are yours for the asking. Only two slots are permitted to a club, and the fanciest clubs choose to do without. My own Chelsea Village Casino, ''a noddy little club,'' as one Londoner put it, has four tables and the spirit of a very low-key neighborhood pub. I was signed in without fuss and joined in a game of seven-card stud. Our haste was prompted by the requirement that 48 hours must elapse between one's signing up and one's ''gaming. I could bring four guests. Craps tables can be found in only two casinos - the Sportsman and the Victoria Sporting Club on Edgeware Road, the city's largest establishment. There was no mistaking it for the Ritz. Moreover, in Britain such bettors lose only half their wager when the zero shows up. Your check will not be cashed by a casino unless you have made arrangements in advance, and no credit of any sort can be given - even, as a club manager put it, ''to the son of a sheik who wants to play on Monday but will not be getting his monthly draft from poppa till Friday. Between Crockfords and the Golden Nugget, socially and economically, lie a dozen clubs that visitors from America are likely to find more congenial and more welcoming. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them.